Care of Hermit Crabs



	The quality of water is vital to Hermit Crabs' health. Most tap water has chlorine in it. This is harmful to hermit crabs, just as it is to fish in an aquarium. Water treatment drops can be purchased at a petstore. These are the same drops used to treat fish tanks, and are safe for your hermit crabs' water. The drops neutralize chlorine and heavy metals. All water in the habitat and the water used to give baths needs to be de-chlorinated or treated chemically to remove the chlorine. Purchased drinking water and distilled water do not have chlorine in them, but this can get expensive. Water treatment drops generally cost $3 for a bottle. A single drop will generally treat one-half or one gallon of tap water, depending on the brand and the amount of chlorine in your area's water. (Do not add dosage drops to a small dish that were intended o be added to a gallon of water. Make the entire gallon of water and then add treated water to the dish. Some chemicals can do harm when they are too strong in the water, than when they are diluted into water.) A hermit crab breathes by keeping its gills moist. If these gills gather chlorine deposits on them, the gills can become irritated and eventually swell. The crab can become sluggish and lethargic, due to lack of oxygen -- suffocation and eventually die. I have learned from Florida Marine Research [a supplier of hermit crabs; http://www.fmrpets.com/ ], that "Stress Coat" (found with the fish chemicals) can help reverse and treat damaged gills. Stress coat, when added to bath water will reduce the chlorine deposits, and should not be used in addition to another dechlorinating chemical. Several drops can also be added to a spray bottle with water in it, and used to mist the crabs daily. It should not be added to daily drinking water.

Hermit Crab topics covered herein:

All about hermit crabs,

Purchasing the perfect pet,

the appropriate Habitat Set-up,

and a complete Crab Care guide...

"care" , "more detailed care" , "water quality issues"

a short introduction . . .

BIOLOGICAL information:

Hermit crabs are egglayers. The eggs are hatched in the ocean. Crab larvae are the size of plankton, but after a series of three moults, all of their legs are gained and it is time now to crawl up onto the beach. The gills have changed and now air is breathed, and crabs will drown in the water, if submersed for long periods. They must now find their first shell having crawled up onto the beach. Crabs don't return to the ocean again until the female lays her eggs there to be hatched. Hermit crabs will collect water from tide pools and live near trees or other growths for protection from predators. Natural predators are birds, fish, octopus, other crabs, and some mammals (man included).

for the SEX of a HERMIT CRAB

Please note: pet store hermit crabs are not sexed. . .

It is believed that male and female hermit crabs behave the same.

Furthermore, people cannot distinguish the difference between male and female crabs, and since hermit crabs cannot reproduce in captivity, it does not matter whether you have a male or a female pet.

Short Biography of a hermit crab:

Although crabs can live up to 20 years in the wild, they normally do not in captivity. Small crabs moult more often than larger ones, and this puts them at risk; but large ones may not stay active in small tanks and may also be at risk for death. There are no known diseases from hermit crabs. There is little known about this creature's internal workings; we do know that the most dangerous time in a crab's life is just before, through, and immediately after the moulting process.

Hermit Crabs "borrow" the shell that they are in. They will never fully leave the shell (excepting of course, the switching of shells) unless they moult, are sick, or are dying or dead. NEVER, EVER forcibly try to pull a crab out of its shell. The crab will allow itself to be torn in two, before it will be pulled out.

In addition to being a community creature, crabs are nocturnal (nighttime)

scavengers (eats anything) and will display the majority of their behaviors at night.

About Hermit Crabs . . .

Crabs live in a "colony" in the wild. As many as 100 will roam together, and as few as 20 will form loose communities. Crabs are a community creature and this should be taken into consideration when choosing crab's size and in setting up the habitat.

Land Tree Hermit Crabs

The name means that they dwell on land, after hatched.

It means that they climb and spend time off the ground.

Also, that they borrow the shell that they are in.

Finally, that they are a crustacean.

more...

A hermit crab is known as "soldier crab" in some of its native areas. This gets confusing, because there is a crab with the name soldier crab in other tropical areas.

A terrestrial hermit crab's full name is "land tree hermit crab". Hermit means a couple of things. Mostly it refers to the similarity to some religious cloister brothers, in that they are seperate individuals but united in their faith and in their habitation. It also refers to the fact that the crabs borrow the shell that they are in. They have no real "home" of their own, they are hermits.

How to buy a crab

Never buy a crab who will NOT come out of the shell. Granted that crabs are shy, give them some time, put them in the water bowl, or just hold them for a few minutes. If the crab will not come out after you have been patient, there may be something wrong with it. At the very least, it will not be any fun to have as a pet if it never comes out!

Conversely, NEVER buy a crab who is never scared and never retreats into his shell. Most often, if a crab will not curl into his shell, he is sick or dying.

Look at crab fully, before you buy them. Check the crab for mites. Look at him as he comes out of the shell. Are there white or brown "grain"-looking bits on it? (that are not anything to do with the crab's coloring) DO NOT BUY ! ! ! If a crab is infested, the whole tank could be, and then yours will be. . .

Set-up of a Habitat

SET-UP

A hermit crab habitat MUST include several things, in order for them to have a chance at a long, healthy life.

A leaky aquarium (brand-new works just as good) is a good start for a "crab habitat"

The habitat must have a lid. Hermit crabs are excellent escape artists and should never be underestimated.

* The purpose of the lid is also to retain heat and moisture. (discussed in-depth later)

Unless you live in the tropics, your habitat also needs a heat rock or blacklight fixture to keep the night-time temperature above 60'F. (This is a MUST. If crabs are subjected to temperatures under 60', they might become dormant. They will probably live, but it is not good for them.)

The habitat shouldn't be placed in direct sunlight or next to/under an air vent. (You don't want baked crab or crab icicles.)

A habitat needs 1 or 2 inches of sand or aquarium gravel. (Sand is best. Something that works well and is inexpensive is "play sand". This is usually purchased at a hardware store. It should be screened and rinsed.) The level of sand is dependant upon the size of the largest crab in the habitat. All the crabs should be able to bury themselves fully, if they should choose to.

!!!!!! Note: DO NOT USE CEDAR / WOOD CHIPS! This can create a germ-breeding environment.

You can evaporate an amount of sea/salt water (from a pet store or beach) in the sand or gravel. This will allow the crabs to consume the minerals just as they would in the wild, by absorption. (more on salt/minerals later)

"FURNITURE" and "TOYS"

Climbing is part of the way of life for a land tree hermit crab. Places for the crabs to climb to are a necessity for the crabs' longevity, activity level, and appearance while in captivity.

* Reptile toys from the pet store are an excellent source of starter pieces and ideas. Play equipment layout is limited to your budget and imagination only. Be aware of the danger of a crab getting his shell caught and stuck in between items and the glass. Palm tree plants, hiding logs, rocks, vines, coral, plastic aquarium plants, and wood pieces are excellent items to look at for habitat use.

Care Section

Hermit crabs need several things to survive:

HEAT (65' @ nighttime to 85' @ daytime)

The lid needs to retain heat and moisture as well as the climbing crab himself.

WATER (if the crab cannot absorb water, it will dry out and die of SUFFOCATION ! !)

The water container needs to be deep enough that the crab can nearly submerse himself if it should decide to take a bath.

HUMIDITY is included in the water section, as part of the breathing ability. A crab can't breathe with its gills if it is dry ! ! ! !

The crab requires a dry humid environment. This means that the sand should be dry, but there should be some humidity. This can be evaporating water from the water bowl or light spray misting of water on the sides of the habitat every day.

FOOD (commercially purchased crab food will supplement their diet)

NOTE: Hermit crabs are scavengers in the wild, and as such they should also be fed some of the following from time to time:

fruits or veggies - can be fresh or dried (NO starches or citrus);

meat -- cooked or not (NO seasonings);

peanut butter (no flavors);

PLAIN salted corn tortilla chips (white or yellow);

PLAIN popcorn;

PLAIN salted crackers

BATHS

The crab has to be bathed at least once a week. Lukewarm running tap water is fine; unless your area's water is not so good or if it contains chlorine. Then use warmed (microwaved), filtered / treated water in a bowl or in a tub for a perfect bath (you can add salt, if you want).

BATHS ARE NOT TO BE GIVEN INSIDE THE HABITAT . . .

To give a crab a running water bath: Just hold the crab under the water stream for several seconds and then set him down in the sink. Repeat several times. The crab may come out of his shell most of the way in an attempt to escape the water. They are slippery!!! use care. . .

The necessity of baths and bathing should be taken into consideration when setting up a habitat.

SHELLS (crabs need an assortment of other shells to move into when they choose to: different sizes, shapes, and colors)

TIP: steralize the empty shells in boiling water for a few minutes ; after they have dried, add them to the habitat. You never know who was in there last!

LOVE (the crab will learn to trust you with time, and will come out to see you more often)

lack of MITES:

To check the crab for mites, look at him as he comes out of the shell. Are there white or brown "grain"-looking bits on it? (that are not anything to do with the crab's coloring) Or, are there mites or maggots in the tank, on the food? These need to be gotten rid of !!!

More Detailed Care . . .

COMMUNITY:

Being community creatures, crabs tend to congregate in a "shell pyramid" in corners and in hiding places. They will pick the place and there is very little that you can do about it; not that you need to do anyhting about it! They will gather mostly for warmth and protection. However, it is fun to "wake everyone up" from time to time and play with them.

ROCKS:

For the habitat most rocks are just fine. Examples are: lava, slate, smooth lava glass, sandstone, limestone, etc.

* A word of warning: Do not leave rocks near the water bowl, you don't want it wet (some rocks crumble when wet) or soaking up water.

PLANTS:

Having a real plant in a crab tank is a wonderful idea, however there are some things to consider. Tropical plants have to be kept moist and could be a breeding ground for germs. Desert plants, on the other hand, are just as likely to be uprooted and have someone crawl to the bottom of the pot as they are to be ignored.

Experience leads the authors to suggest that other than air plants, plastic plants are the way to go. Double-stick foam tape works terrifically for adhering tall plant's plastic anchors to the top of your tank. Make sure your lid is on tight !!! Not many crabs stay at the top of these "hanging gardens"; but in a ground corner, they love to hide from the daylight, usually in their "shell pyramid".

CALCIUM

sources are: coral and cuttlebones (keep these away from the water) and also shells.

Calcium is one of the required minerals needed by crabs for a strong exoskeleton. Crabs need a source of calcium in the habitat. Sources of calcium are coral, cuttlebone pieces, and shell or shell pieces. When a crab moults, it will usually eat the exoskeleton to regain that lost calcium.

Coral is found in the aquarium section of the pet store. It is the remains of the living sea coral. It is decorative and beautiful in a habitat set up, and comes in a range of sizes and shapes.

Cuttlebone is an item found in the pet store with the bird toys and foods. It is in large pieces and has a metal fastener used to attach it to the side of a bird cage. You don't need the fastner, and you can use pieces of it.

***When the crabs eat the cuttlebone, there may be some white flakes left in spots in the habitat. This is okay, it is the part of the cuttlebone that they don't eat. (Just looks bad/funny.)

Shells (flat) are usually used as food and water bowls. Calcium is absorbed from the water. You can add small shells to a large water bowl in the habitat to accomplish the same goal. The humidity is also higher in a habitat with more water.

SALT:

Crabs will not live long or survive a moulting without salt and minerals.

* Evaporate an amount of sea/salt water (from a pet store or beach) in the sand or gravel. This will allow the crabs to consume the minerals just as they would in the wild, by absorption.

tip: Feed the crab a salted, plain tortilla chip once a week or two. This gives the crabs some of their salt. The little nibbles that they leave are so cute!

MOULTING:

This is how a crab grows and rejuvenates lost limbs.

A crab builds up water inside the exoskeleton. This water force is what splits the exoskeleton and this is when a hermit crab sheds its outer layer. (this is just like when a balloon gets too full of water, it pops)

The shed skin will be hollow. On smaller crabs, this can be hard to see. If you suspect that you have a dead crab, check to see if it is hollow. Or, if there is no "tail" on the dead crab, then it is not dead, it is molting. It is still in the shell. Leave it be.

This is the most dangerous time in a crab's life. In the wild, there are predators waiting to nibble on a soft crab. In the habitat, there is the danger of infection from germs and bacteria. It is a good practice to always wash your hands before and after handling crabs, but you must do so when you have a "fresh moult".

The crab needs extra love, protection, water, and warmth. Continue with Isolation tank...

ISOLATION TANK:

Whenever there is a sick, injured, or moulting crab, it should be isolated from the rest of the community. Sometimes crabs will attack each other when one of them is soft. (I have never personally had this occur, but I have heard it happen before.)

In addition to adequate heat, an isolation tank has four requirements. First, a dozen extra shells. Second, fresh water with a pinch of salt in it. Third, a hiding area and plenty of sand. Fourth, a teeny bit of fresh food. Put a towel over the top of the tank and you are done. Check in on him/her once a day and after 10 days, there should be a great improvement in color. During this time, there will probably be a new shell or two everyday until one "fits".

Water quality issues. . .

The quality of water is vital to Hermit Crabs' health.

Most tap water has chlorine in it. This is harmful to hermit crabs, just as it is to fish in an aquarium. Water treatment drops can be purchased at a petstore. These are the same drops used to treat fish tanks, and are safe for your hermit crabs' water. The drops neutralize chlorine and heavy metals.

All water in the habitat and the water used to give baths needs to be de-chlorinated or treated chemically to remove the chlorine. Purchased drinking water and distilled water do not have chlorine in them, but this can get expensive. Water treatment drops generally cost $3 for a bottle. A single drop will generally treat one-half or one gallon of tap water, depending on the brand and the amount of chlorine in your area's water. (Do not add dosage drops to a small dish that were intended o be added to a gallon of water. Make the entire gallon of water and then add treated water to the dish. Some chemicals can do harm when they are too strong in the water, than when they are diluted into water.)

A hermit crab breathes by keeping its gills moist. If these gills gather chlorine deposits on them, the gills can become irritated and eventually swell. The crab can become sluggish and lethargic, due to lack of oxygen -- suffocation and eventually die.

I have learned from Florida Marine Research

[a supplier of hermit crabs; http://www.fmrpets.com/ ],

that "Stress Coat" (found with the fish chemicals) can help reverse and treat damaged gills.

Stress coat, when added to bath water will reduce the chlorine deposits, and should not be used in addition to another dechlorinating chemical. Several drops can also be added to a spray bottle with water in it, and used to mist the crabs daily. It should not be added to daily drinking water.

Water quantity issues. . .

The quantity of water is vital to Hermit Crabs' health.

The amount of water in a habitat will depend on the size of the largest crab. The container should not be made of metal and should be deep enough for the largest crab to go wading through, if he should choose to do so.

Salt should not be added to the drinking water. It is preferable to give them salt baths instead of salted drinking water. Never add salt to the drinking water at all if you are providing salt in another manner -- a hamster salt wheel or mineral wheel, or in other food, like corn tortilla chips or plain salt popcorn.

The water in the tank provides another needed service. Humidity is vital to a hermit crab's health. A hermit crab breathes through moist skin and will suffocate if it dries out.

Last updated on: September 30, 2001